QUARTER III which means “people”.
This ethno-linguistic group is known
Lesson I: Arts and Crafts of Mindanao for its embroidery, brass ornaments, and beadwork which are
used in their traditional clothing.
Mindanao has been described as The B’laan’s clothes are woven from abaca fiber, and
“Land of Promise”. Mindanao is embellished with buttons, beads, embroidery, and brass
the home of the 16th President of and copper work.
the Philippines, Rodrigo Roa One distinct item is the heavy brass belt that B’laan
Duterte. women usually wear around their waistline. These brass
belts have numerous tiny bells that produce pleasing
Local and International tourist who chiming sounds that signal the arrival of the women.
visited the regions of Mindanao are The B’laan also use mother-of-pearl that are cut and
now introduced to the colorful arts shaped into geometric forms to look like sequins called
of Mindanaoans. taknum.
As one of the largest islands in the The B’laan are also known for their ikat process which is
Philippines, Mindanao is a melting used in weaving highly-polished abaca textiles. This
pot of tribes and cultures. The process is done by dyeing the fabric where the yarns are
pioneer inhabitants, the Moro and the Lumad (the indigenous tightly wrapped with strings before weaving.
groups) who resisted the Spanish colonization, strongly retain The colors of the textiles are usually in shades of black or
the influence of the Malayo–Polynesian arts and culture. Thus, brown, red or ochre (darker shade of orange), and ecru
it can be observed that there is a semblance in the arts of the (the color of the undyed abaca). The B’laans put high value
ethnic groups of Mindanao with that of its southern and on their textiles that woven blankets are considered an
eastern neighboring countries – Indonesia, Malaysia, and the important part of the bride’s dowry.
Polynesian Islands. Bagobos’ Traditional Clothing
ATTIRE, TEXTILES, AND TAPESTRIES The Bagobos are one of the
ethnolinguistic groups in
Mindanao that contribute to
B’laan’s Traditional Clothing
the area’s culture and
One of the ethno-linguistic groups tradition. This group’s name
that inhabits Mindanao is the B’laan. comes from the word “bago”
They usually reside in specific place in which means “new”. and
Mindanao like South and North “obo”, which means
Cotabato and Davao del Sur. “growth”.
The B’laan’s name comes from a
combination of two words “bila”,
which means “house”, and “an”,
Bagobos are known T’boli’s Traditional Clothing
for their ceremonial
cloth called Inabal. T’boli come from South Cotabato,
This is a special particularly Lake Sebu. T’bolis are
textile woven from famous for their complicated beadwork,
deep brown abaca wonderful woven fabrics, and beautiful
fibers. brass ornaments.
Ikat process is also used by
Bagobos to obtain intricate
designs for their textiles.
Bagobo women are the only
T’b
ones who are only allowed to weave this fabric.
olis are also known in
using t’nalak similar to the
Red holds a special meaning in Bagobo textile design for
Bagobos. It is made from
men. The hero or warrior called Bagani by Bagobos usually
abaca tree and prepared
wear blood-red clothes, and a head kerchief called
in a process known as
tangkulu. This style of clothing represents their courage
kedungon.
as Bagobos. The weaving tradition of Bagobo is usually
The t’nalak of T’bolis are made
tied to the Magandi, a dominant warrior class that is
by women of royal blood, and
recognized through a red color of their clothing.
thousands of patterns with reference folklore and stories are
Women on the other hand, are covered with inabal skirts
known to the T’boli women by memory. Fu Dalu, a spiritual
and blouses. Their clothes are designed with stripes,
guardian, is said to guide t’nalak weaving, a process that
plaids, and other organic motifs such as plants, stars,
follows several rituals and rules.
lightning and even human figures.
They believe this textile as sacred and important.
Bagobo women also wear rows of bells around their waist
Occasions like traditional wedding rituals usually involve
and ankles that produce tinkling sounds every time they
the exchange of t’nalak textile. The textile is used as
move or walk called Kolungkolung. The sound made by
blankets, clothing, and also deemed helpful in pregnancy
the Kolungkolung is relatively “standard” to the bagobo
and delivery as a pre-natal covering.
taste which means that they use Kolungkolung to give
It is believed that only the t’nalak weavers are the ones
pleasing sound as they perform their traditional dance.
allowed to handle the cloth.
Some of the distinctive colors featured in the tri-color
scheme of the t’nalak are white for the pattern, red for
relief elements, and black (or deep
brown) for the background.
In 1998, Lang Dulay, the famous T’boli drea
able to receive the National Living
Treasures- Gawad Manlilikha ng
Bayan (GAMABA) Award by the National Commission for b) Malong a landap- it is characterized by “langkit”,
Culture and the Arts. The GAMABA is an award that aims to or decorative strips of profuse geometric designs,
give honor and pride to different traditional artist who which are hand sewn on the malong. This type is
contributed to preserve the works, skills and crafts of their considered the most popular.
group. This also promotes the preservation of the Filipino c) Malong a ampik- it is characterized by a pattern
culture through arts. with geometrical shapes colored with black and
white, and combination of contrasting primary
Maranao’s Traditional Clothing colors.
The Maranao is the biggest group of Yakan’s Traditional Clothing
Muslims living in Mindanao. They are
dwellers who occupy the lands The Yakan is an indigenous
surrounding Lake Lanao. They are known tribe native to the island of
to be the “People of the Lake” Basilan. Their weaving skills
because they are the considered as the is recognized for their use
Lake Lanao’s guardians. of remarkable technicolor
geometric patterns. The
The Maranao people are popularly
intricately woven fabrics are
known for their malong. It is a
used for clothing and other
traditional hand woven tube skirt that
accessories.
is made using a backstrap loom. It can
also be a machine-made multi-colored cotton cloth. Yakan women traditionally made the textiles for their
Maranao women usually wear malong as a skirt, dress, cultural dress known as the Semmek. They also crafted
blouse, or gown. It may also be used as a hammock, fruit accessories and interior decors from abaca, pineapple, and
basket, sleeping bag, bathrobe, baby carriage, simple bamboo fibers grown on the island.
market bag, cowl or raincoat, sack, and headgear for both They also use malong used for ceremonies and rituals is
men and women, depending on how a person folds this usually made of silk, while the The hand-loomed fabrics
special fabric. woven by Yakan women are known for their bright colors
The malong used for ceremonies and rituals is usually and geometric patterns. These fabrics are traditionally
made of silk, while the ones for daily use are with a simple used as garments, which include:
pattern of plaids and stripes. The more elaborate silk a) Seputangan is a square cloth used by the Yakan
malong features intricate designs in red, purple, and women as a head or as a belt. It is the most
yellow, which are the colors used in different ceremonial decorative piece of garment because of its with
occasions. different designs, but it is the most time- consuming
Types of Malong: to make.
a) Malong a andon- it is considered the most b) Badjulapi, is a tight blouse with long sleeves worn
expensive and rarest or oldest of the three types. by Yakan women, which is ornamented with gold,
Andon refers to the “patola” motif, or a double ikat silver and bronze buttons.
woven sari, usually made from silk.
c) Yakan sawal, is a traditional tight-fitting, striped c) Yakan sawal, is a traditional tight-fitting, striped
trousers made of bamboo fibers with vertical stripes, trousers made of bamboo fibers with vertical stripes,
zigzag and diamond patterns. zigzag and diamond patterns.
d) Pinalantupan is a type of skirts layered over the d) Pinalantupan is a type of skirts layered over the
trousers made from a mix of pineapple and bamboo trousers made from a mix of pineapple and bamboo
fibers. fibers.
e) Pagal Bato is a bride’s button-up jacket made of e) Pagal Bato is a bride’s button-up jacket made of
satin or cotton cloth, and sometimes mixed with satin or cotton cloth, and sometimes mixed with
lurex threads. lurex threads.
a) Seputangan is a square cloth used by the Yakan
women as a head or as a belt. It is the most
CRAFTS, ACCESSORIES, AND BODY ORNAMENTS OF
decorative piece of garment because of its with
MINDANAO
different designs, but it is the most time- consuming
to make.
b) Badjulapi, is a tight blouse with long sleeves worn
by Yakan women, which is ornamented with gold, Ethnolinguistic groups in Mindanao are also known for their
silver and bronze buttons. crafts which are made from indigenous materials, usually
from their own community.
Crafts denotes a skill. It is employed in branches of the 2. Woodcraft- it is a type of handicraft that uses wood as a
decorative arts and is usually associated with an artistic primary material to carve an object such as a statue or relief,
practice that is honed through hands-on experiences accessory, ornament, mask, and other craftworks like frames.
following the principles of craftsmanship. This also includes different processes such as carving, wood
turning, and furniture making.
Part of Mindanao culture is the artistry of the various crafts
made by different ethnic groups. There are different varieties Sarimanok also plays a vital role in wood crafts. It is
of crafts in Mindanao which may be categorized as textiles, sometimes carved by Maranaos in order to make souvenirs
woodcraft, metal craft, and beadwork. for their livelihood. The sarimanok motif is also a popular
motif in architectural designs.
1. Textiles include embroidery , felt making , knitting, lac
making, tapestry and weaving. It is the most common form of
craft among the different ethnolinguistic groups in Mindanao.
Okir
There are distinct motif and patterns that are present each
group. This design is
prominent in the
traditional wood
carvings of the
Sarimanok
Moro communities.
The sarimanok is the
The word okir
Maranao’s legendary
originated from an
bird. It comes from the
old Malayan word
words “sari”, meaning
which means carve
cloth or garment and
or “ukit” in Filipino. It is referred to as okir in Maranao, while
“manok” , the Filipino
it is called okkil in Maguindanaon.
term for chicken. It is
also said to be a symbol The pattern okir motif has evolved from the Indian stylized
of good fortune. bird and naga themes, and the Islamic tradition of using
flowers, vines and geometric patterns.
It further is derived from
the totem bird of the Maranaos called Itotoro, which is Okir design is often carved or etched on hardwood, brass and
believed to be a medium to the spirit world together with its silver. It is also used on decorative wall paintings.
twin spirit bird called Inikadowa.
It is depicted as a fowl with colorful wings and feathered tail, The Okir Motif is a prolific design motif that can be seen in
holding a fish on its beak or talons. The head is profusely almost all Maranao artifacts, and architecture, revealing the
decorated with scroll, leaf and spiral motifs. Maranao’s distinct and original culture.
According to Dr. Nagasura, okir has different symbolic A red textile strap beaded with red and green cut glass called
patterns which are used by Maranao crafts makers. Some of rocaille beads is attached to the handles, which functions as
these patterns are: a shoulder strap.
1. Matilak (circle), The lutuan represents a fine
2. Poyok (bud), example of Islamic metalwork from
3. Dapal (leaf), Southeast Asia, which still remains
4. Pako (fern or spiral form), underrepresented in the world’s
5. Todi (fern leaf with spiral at upper edge, major collections of Islamic art.
6. Pako lungat (fern leaf with a cut at one edge)
4. Beadworks- these craft works
3. Metal crafts- these crafts include the process of making include the use of beads in making
jewelry, ornaments, and accessories using steel and light accessories and ornaments such as necklaces, bracelets,
metal materials. earrings and hairclips.
Metal crafts also involve the processes of embossing and
engraving. Beads are also used to add more designs on textiles and
different clothes such as traditional attires.
Embossing in metal artworks is the process of forming a
design that slightly protrudes or bulges around the surface. The processes used in beadwork include loom and off-loom
weaving, stringing, bead embroidery, and bead knitting.
Engraving is a technique of making prints and designs from
metal plates by making incisions on the metal surface with
the use of a cutting tool. a. Accessories are supplementary components that
commonly adds features in the traditional outfits of different
ethnolinguistic groups. These groups use it as a part of their
culture and tradition, usually during important occasions such
as a wedding ceremony.
Most of the accessories of the ethnolinguistic groups serve as
evidence of their artistry and craftsmanship. Their culture and
tradition are reflected in their products
Lutuan and artifacts. In Mindanao, elaborate
accessories are specifically made and
It is a small bronze box with engraved patterns that is carried used for traditional events and rituals,
at the waist. It has an outer lid and handles, with several
such as weddings.
inner compartments used for storing betel nut and leaves.
Usually, lutuan is accompanied by pegupaan which is Pis
bamboo container for paraphernalia used in chewing betel
nut.
Yakan grooms wear a handwoven Suwat lmimot
head cloth called, Pis, which
represents men’s bravery, and is It is a wooden comb with colored
a symbolic protection from glass beads, that is worn at the back
spears or knives. of the head.
Olos
A short skirt worn over trousers
by brides from Yakan Tribe.
This traditional attire is worn with l'mimot
a hat called, Saruk.
Another significant traditional A big necklace that practically covers
accessory is the Kandit, a 15- the whole neck and chest area.
meter belt or sash made of gilim
(red cloth). These pieces of
clothing are all decorated with
beads.
Tanyak-tanyak
Blonso or brass bracelet worn about
Yakan also practice the custom of tanyak-tanyak, or face
15-20 on each arm.
painting, during weddings. A foundation of white powder is
applied on the faces of the bride and groom, followed by
putting dots and lines that create various patterns.
Hilot Imimot
Nomong
Another group that has a fondness for accessories is the
An earring made of glass
T’boli.
beads and horse hair.
The hilot is a heavy brass belt worn by women during Variations of colors like
festivals. The T’boli nobility wear it with bracelets, anklets, red, yellow, white, and
furnished with ball-bearings, which signal their approach. black are arranged in
Meanwhile, the hilot lmimot is a brass belt with dangling different geometrical
strings of beads. patterns.
b. Ornaments on the other hand, are accessories used to
beautify and to make the appearance of objects and people
more attractive. Such ornaments of Mindanao are used in
traditional events and rituals, and has the added value of
protection from different elements.
Ornaments have been a part of the daily life of different
ethnolinguistic groups. It highlights their own unique culture
and tradition. These ornaments are believed to be protective
talismans that shield them from harm and misfortune.
Common ornaments used in Mindanao
Crocodile tooth necklace for fortune
Triangular amulets with symbols wrapped in black
cloth (anting- anting) which is a protection against
bullets.
Snake bone belts to guard from pain
Maniktegiyas, a beaded necklace or bracelet from
dried fruit seeds that protects the wearer from illness
caused by evil spirits.
Maniksembulan, a necklace or bracelet made of
short bamboo stems that serve as added protection.
Kayab, a piece of cloth worn like a turban, which is a
protection from rain.