Wide Rustic X Kitchen Island
Dimensions
Dimensions shown above
Difficulty: Advanced
Preparation
Shopping List
1 - 3/4" thick top 24" x 52" (recommend a premade project panel)
5 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long
3 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
1 - 1x12 @ 8 feet long (cut the 31 1/2" long pieces from this board)
1 - 1x12 @ 4 feet long (cut the shelves from this board)
3 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long
3 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
1 - 1x6 @ 10 feet long
1 - 1x8 @ 4 feet long
4' 1x10 board for the drawer stops
2 - 10"x18" 1/2" plywood pieces for drawer bottoms (can be scraps or purchase a 1/4" sheet)
4 caster wheels that can be mounted on bottom of 2x4
NOTE: Cut list and shopping list has been updated per reader comments on 9/18/2013
Common Materials
2 inch screws
1 1/4 inch finish nails
2 inch finish nails
2-1/2" Pocket Hole Screws
Elmer's Wood Glue
Cut List
4 - 2x4 @ 32 1/4" (legs)
4 - 2x4 @ 19 1/2" (leg top/bottoms)
2 - 2x4 @ 27 5/8" (long point to long point, both ends cut parallel at 45 degrees)
4 - 2x4 @ 13 3/4" (longest point measurement, one end cut at 45 degrees)
1 - 2x4 @ 43 1/2" (front bottom apron)
1 - 2x4 @ 46 1/2" (middle bottom apron)
3 - 2x2 @ 43 1/2" (top aprons/bottom of drawer trim)
1 - 2x2 @ 7 1/2" (drawer center trim)
1 - 2x2 @ 17 1/2" (shelf area center trim)
3 - 1x12 @ 31 1/2" (shelf sides)
2 - 1x10 @ 22 1/8" (drawer area backs)
14 - 1x3 @ 14 1/4" (bottom shelf slats)
2 - 1x12 @ 22 1/8" (shelves)
4 - 2x2 @ 10 1/2" (drawer slides)
2 - 1x2 @ 24" (top trim sides)
2 - 1x2 @ 50 1/2" (top trim front/back)
1 - 3/4" thick top 24" x52"
DRAWERS - measure and cut to fit so there's an 1/8" gap on each side!!! Measurements given
should be used as a guide only.
4 - 1x6 @ 11 1/4" (drawer sides)
4 - 1x6 @ 17 3/8" (drawer front and back)
2 - 1/2" plywood 9 3/4" x 17 3/8" (drawer bottoms)
4 - 1x2 @ 11 1/4" (drawer slide cleats)
2 - 1x8 @ 20 3/4" (drawer faces)
NOTE: Cut list and shopping list has been updated per reader comments on 9/18/2013
Tools
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
kreg-jig
drill
circular saw
compound miter saw
nailer
sander
General Instructions
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also
advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and
smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards.
Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with
finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will
not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
Instructions
Step 1
Start by building the two leg ends. Note that the outside and bottom are not flush.
TIP: Drill 3/4" pocket holes on insides of top 2x4s for attaching top in later steps.
Step 2
Attach the center Xs inside the leg/end apron frames. Remember to build two.
Step 3
Next, attach the two leg sets together with the bottom 2x4s. Note that the bottom boards are at the
same height as the bottom 2x4s in the leg sets - set up 3/4" from bottom of actual legs.
Step 4
Attach the 2x2s to the top, leaving space between for the drawer. Also, I added a third 2x2 to the baci
for extra support and to square things up now.
Step 5
Step 6
Attach the drawer/shelf sides. Make sure the center partition is exactly centered all the way down and
across - otherwise your drawers will slide cockeyed.
Step 7
Attach the back boards to finish out the back of the drawer area.
Step 8
Attach shelf slats evenly spaced on bottom shelf area.
Step 9
Then attach shelves - these can be made fixed by attaching with 3/4" pocket holes and 1 1/4" pocket
hole screws. They can also be adjustable if you use shelf pins.
Step 10
There's a few different ways to do the drawers, but since they are so shallow (less than 12") it's hard
to find small drawer slides. The 2x2s act as cleats to hold the drawer in the opening. Apply candle
wax to top to make the drawer slide easier.
Attach with just 2 2" screws for now - you may need to adjust to get the drawer to slide just right.
Step 11
Build your drawers as shown above - but build to fit the opening. Measure between the 2x2s and
subtract 1/4" (1/8" for each side) and make this the overall width of your drawer box (not including the
1x2 cleats)
If you use pocket holes to build the drawer, place on outsides of front and back - they will get hidden
by drawer face.
Step 12
Adjust drawer until it slides easily. They should sit inset 3/4" to allow for the drawer face.
Step 13
With the drawers installed,cut the 1x8 drawer faces to fit the openings, leaving an 1/8" gap around all
sides. Attach to drawer boxes with 1 1/4" finish nails and wood glue.
Step 14
Frame out the top with 1x2s. These can be nailed and glued on.
Step 15
Attach top through the 2x2s on the underside of the top and through predrilled pocket holes. You can
also carefuly drill holes through the 1x2 trim into the underside of the top.
Step 16
Attach caster wheels to base of legs.
Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood
filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper.
Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as
well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.
It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color
evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
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