Modifications for the VR94 plus - Do it yourself changes Vr94

Modifications for the Voyager VR94 Plus and generics

Giovani Alves de Cavalcanti

Here’s the thing, if the VR94 has the integrated MC145106P (IC-5-) as its PLL, it will have on pins 10 and 11 a
CI MC1408 (IC7B) pins 12 and 13. The inputs of the IC 1408 pins 1 and 3 should be connected to an L/D switch.
joining these two pins of the CI1408. This procedure will make the radio reach up to 29.500MHz. If you
If you have the technical skill to carry out this operation, that will be great; if not, look for a technician.
experienced. The number of CI 1408 may be different (IC....?), but what matters is to locate who is.
connected to pins 10/11 of the PLL145106P. Usually, these radios with bands A...F have two cis1408.
Um1408 A and another 1408 B in the electrical diagrams. In the diagram, whoever is connected to pins 10 and 11 of
PLL will be the IC....B.
This worked on my Vr94.
Giovani Alves de Cavalcanti

Another way:
I haven't tested this on my VR94.

Another way:

In all modifications of the PLL, it is necessary to interrupt the trace of pin 10 of the MC
145106, which is connected to pin 13 of IC-7. Note from the layout and detail of the photo that in
the copper face of the printed circuit, there is an interruption of the trace. Do not be fooled. On the side of the
components, there is a jumper, right underneath IC-7, whose tip appears underneath the circuit
integrated, making the direct connection between the two points. Desolder or cut with pliers
the jumper. You then have 24 MHz available. Note that IC-7 is practically underneath the
channel selector.
 In this modification, we also have to disconnect the connection between pin 10 of the PLL and the
pin 13 of IC-7. When we talk about powering the PLL, it basically means injecting a voltage of 8.5
approximately volts on pin 10, and this through a 1.5 kohm resistor. See the photo for the point
that we choose to relieve the tension. Note that there must be tension in both the transmission and the
reception.
In the case of the Voyager VR-9090, we removed the frequency meter module to gain better access.
to jump

In this photo, note the 1k5 resistor connected at the end of the trace that goes to pin 10 of the PLL and the
a point where we have 8.5 volts. Also note that there is a track tip without connection. The jumper is
on the other side of the plate (must be removed). Modification to 10 Meters

To make it easier, observe the white line: that's where the jumper was on the component side. Caution:
in all modifications, it should be removed!
I don't remember well, but in this modification the radio goes up to 29 MHz, but loses some channels from the
10m strip.
They were tested on my VR94.

Modifications taken from the Internet. Be careful when executing them. I am not responsible for any damages to
equipment.

Unify the tuning of the VR 94 plus

Unify the tuning Vr-94, 95, 9000, Alan 8001, etc...
This modification consists of getting the equipment to transmit.
exactly at the same frequency that we receive. This will be of great
help in SSB since we can be sure that we always
we will find "on top" of the reception frequency.
To begin, we will dismantle the two covers of the equipment, and soon
we will locate a bundle of cables at the front that connect to
plate through a white connector, labeled on the plate as J106.
Continuing, we will locate the resistor (R141) and the diode (D38) and the
we will unroll.
The next step is to solder a jumper underneath the connector on the side.
we will solder the plate and join the wire from the connector marked in the drawing with
a thick trail that passes by.
Now the equipment will transmit and receive at the same frequency, and not
we will have more concern to tune correctly with the fine and the
rough, being sure that we are not transmitting 'outside of
"frequency". It worked on my VR94 Plus.

To align after unifying, adjust coil L19

for AM, L20 for USB and
L21 to LSB

Text taken from the article by Eduardo Passos

Sauerkraut line Voyager VR 94 95 9000 etc...
Hello, after a long time without posting, I'm here with a new one actually.
I'm talking about the sauerkraut from the Voyager radios from the VR line 94, 95, 96, 9000, and others.

but like alan 87 super star 3900 etc.

material list:

.key with three positions and three very thin pieces of wire.

Very easy not doing this in the frequency 24MHz to 29MHz....

Cobra 148 GTL

Modify output 2sc 1969 to IRF 520 output Mosfet

List of parts for MOD:

-1: IRF520
-1: resistor 330K Ohms
-1: 470-Ohm resistor
1N4148 Diode
Ceramic capacitor 68PF
Ceramic capacitor 470PF
Conversion instructions:
1.) Remove L40, & the 2SC1969 Final Transistor.
2.) Install an IRF520 in place of the stock component, the original use.
Insulators and, if there is any damaged, replace them. Use
heat dissipation compound to ensure good heat transfer.

3.) Add 470PF ceramic capacitor throughout the C152.

4.) Add 68PF ceramic capacitor to the entire C146.

5.) Solder one end of the 330K Ohm resistor to the GATE-
(PIN-1) to IRF520, then solder the other end of the circuit,
Ground.

Solder a 470 Ohm resistor in series with the lead anode.

of a 1N4148 diode. Now solder the cathode (final rings)
from the 1N4148 diode to the GATE (PIN-1) of the IRF520.
Solder the free end of the 470 Ohm resistor - circuit
Ground. See Diagram 1 for the connection diagram of the part.

Once converted, tune the transmitter.

Modification for 148gtl Key of 10 kHz ABOVE

Key +10 kHz or -10 kHz

Modification for 10 kHz ABOVE and BELOW key:

Basically, you will only need to add voltage or grounding to pin 16 of the
PLL MB8719 to achieve a jump of 10 kHz above or below.

Here is the modification to only INCREASE 10 kHz:

Cut the trace of pin 16 of the PLL.

2. Install a 4.7K resistor over this cut in the trace.
3. Using a pole key and a position, connect a wire from one of the terminals of the
key next to the cut of pin 16.
4. On the other side of the key, connect a wire to pin 9 of the PLL. (8 volts)
When you apply 8 volts, it 'pushes' pin 16 up, causing a jump of 10.
KHz.
Note that this modification will not work on all channels due to the 'jumps' of the
channel selector switch.

To have a key for 10 kHz ONLY:

1 - Land pin 16 using a single pole key and one position. It is not necessary.
cut the PLL track.
Landing pin 16 will cause the PLL to drop 10 KHz. But this will not happen in
all channels, due to the "jumps" of the channel selector switch.

breaking the jaw of the 148 GTL

Increase the sensitivity of the Clarifier 148 gtl

Clarifier

1 - Remove: R174, R175, R44, R187, D52, D75, and VR5

2- Place a jumper in the position of R175
3 - Solder the Blue wire to the other side of R174
4 - Desolder the orange wire from its location and solder it onto jumper J29

One of the ways to break the jaw of the 148 GTL

Cabbage Slaw Cobra 148 GtL

Cabbage Cobra 148 GtL

If we do it on the Radio
Cobra 148 GTL, we will open its channels according to the following table as shown in the figure above.
below

Digit channel Frequency in kHz

CB + LOW + BRT 15 -15 26815
16 -13 26835
17 -12 26845
18 -11 26855
19 -10 26865
20-08 26885
21 -07 26895
22 -06 26905
23 -03 26935
May 24, 26915
25 -04 26925
26 -02 26945
27 -01 26955
CB + HI + BRT NORMAL OPERATION 01 to 40 26965 to 27405
PA + HI + BRT 23 41 27415
26 42 27425
27 43 27435
28 44 27445
CB + LOW + DIM 15 45 27455
16 47 27475
17 48 27485
18 49 27495
19 50 27505
20 52 27525
21 53 27535
22 54 27545
23 57 27575
24 55 27555
25 56 27565
26 58 27585
27 59 27595
31 63 27635
36 68 27685
PA + LOW + DIN 23 73 27735
CB + HI + DIM 01 60 27605
02 61 27615
03 62 27625
04 64 27645
05 65 27655
06 66 27665
07 67 27675
08 69 27695
09 70 27705
10 71 27715
11 72 27725
12 74 27745
13 75 27755
14 76 27765
15 77 27775
16 79 27795
17 80 27805
18 81 27815
19 82 27825
20 84 27845
21 85 27855
22 86 27865
23 89 27895
24 87 27875
25 88 27885
26 90 27905
27 91 27915
28 92 27925
29 93 27935
30 94 27945
31 95 27955
32 96 27965
33 97 27975
34 98 27985
35 99 27995
36 100 28005
37 101 28015
38 102 28025
39 103 28035
40 104 28045
PA + HI + DIM 25 105 28055
26 106 28065
27 107 28075
28 108 28085
CB + LOW + BRT 31 03A 26995
36 07A 27045
PA + LOW + BRT 23 11A 27095
* Note: the last 3 channels (3A, 7A, and 11A) are for remote control. The channels: 46, 51, 78, 83,
-09 and -14 do not exist in this sauerkraut.
As you can see in the diagram next to it, it is the audio output of the Alan 8001 radio that
it is the same chassis as the Voyager and many others. Highlighted in red are the
components that will be modified in the circuit.
(Withdrawn and/or replaced by others.)

First of all, remove the IC TA 7222 and throw it far away, because besides being expensive,
The ones in the market are all marked up. Now replace C 148 with a resistor.
from 47R, Replace R 202 with a 47nF capacitor, Remove C 147 and place in its place
in series two resistors one of 2.2 Ohms with one of 3.9K Ohms, with the 2.2 Ohms connected to the
the side of the ground and the 3K9 at pin 9 of the IC Ta 7222. Now solder the negative of a
47mF/16V capacitor at the junction of the two resistors that you made in series and the
positive of the same on pin 6 of the IC TA 7222. Ground point 10 of TA 7222. Remove C
149 and instead place a 1R resistor in series with a 100nF capacitor,
since the resistor on the ground side. Remove C 150 and D 80.
Next to it is an image of the IC TDA 2003 with its respective terminals. The diagram
The connection is like this. Pin 1 of the TDA 2003 will be connected with a capacitor of
2.2mF/16V on the board where pin 4 of the IC TA 7222 was connected. Pin 2 to pin 6.
Pin 3 to pin 7 or 8 of the TA 7222. Pin 4 to pin 9. And pin 5 to pin 1 of the TA 7222.
There you go, with that done, your radio is already working like new, owing nothing.
for the original configuration. What we emphasize is the technician's attention to detail, as in
Everything in life, a little bit of care doesn't hurt anyone. Moreover, if the...
The assembly looks beautiful, it is a source of pride to see the well-finished work when it is completed.

Suggestion: for fixing the tda2003 I make a hole just above the original hole
where was the ta7222, and I make the connections with Lids (Component legs with
spaghetti retractable thermal insulation, use thermal paste for the TDA 2003 because it
heat up a little bit. The new radios are already coming with this change, but they
they put a plaque with the IC and the support components. Kiko

This is the circuit used to replace the TA7222 with the TDA 2003. It is a circuit
suggested by SGS Thomson Microelectronics
As you can see next to the audio circuit of the Cobra 148 GTL, one of the radios.
Most well-known PXs in the market. In detail, you can see the parts that will be
swapped or removed from the circuit. The procedures for the 148GTL are the
same as those presented above for the Alan 8001. Very Careful is the
the only recommendation is to follow the scheme and good volumes, Kiko PY2 LF

Replace the IC TA 7222 with the IC TDA 2003. Replace R 208 with a 3.3k resistor. Remove C.
177 and put a 2.2 ohm resistor in its place. Replace R 197 with a 47 ohm resistor and
C 178 for a 47nF capacitor. Place a 2.2mF/16V capacitor where it was.
pin 4 of TA 7222. Solder the negative of a 47mF/16V capacitor at the junction of R
of 3k3 and R of 2.2 R and the positive at pin 6 of TA 7222. (or better where it was.)
Remove R 198. Ground pin 10 of TA 7222. Place a capacitor underneath the board.
of 100nF in series with a resistor of 1R from the negative of C 175 to -B. Given that the
resistor goes to ground.

Next to our old acquaintance the TDA 2003. Now solder pin 1 of the tda2003 to
pin 4 of ta7222. the capacitor placed is 2.2mF. pin 2 to pin 6 of ta
Pin 3 to pin 7 or 8, pin 4 to pin 9 of the IC 7222. And pin 5 to pin 1 of the TA.
7222. everything is fine, just test it. and it's a great volume. now it's all about the details.
It's just to test and see that the audio is as if it were with the TA 7222.
Note: this change was made on several radios by me, and now the radios more
new ones are coming with the tda 2003) Kiko PY2 LF.

How to replace the Tr 2sc 1969 and the 2sc 2166 with the IRF 520 without losing power and audio quality in your CB radio
Voyager, Alan, Super Star, Mega Star, and others that use this board. The images and diagrams are of the radio that
Changes have been made in our laboratory.

This is the radio that we made the changes to. It's an Alan 87, a radio that has the same chassis as the Voyager, Super Star.
3900, Alan 8001 Alan 87 and the Mega Star. The changes are not very complex but require knowledge in
electronics and some experience in radio frequency. In our experiences with Alan 87 we had none
Unexpectedly, everything went well, so we make it clear that: We are not responsible for any damages that may occur.
with your equipment.

As you can see in the figure below highlighted in red everything

components that will be replaced and others that will no longer be used.
 The parts that will be removed and exchanged C209 - 171 = 152 (1500Pf) Mylar
(Already with the values of the new ones) C 175 = 680Pf /UL
Remove C 208 and 170
TR 56 - 43 - 44 IRF 520 Add a Capacitor in parallel with D 89
R 270 - 215 = 100K/ 1/4W ceramic = 104Pf and a 47K 1/4W resistor
R 217 - 272 - 47K 1W D 112 - 88 - 89 Zener 5.6V 400mW
R 219 = 47K 1/4W Withdraw D 90.
R 271 - 216 - 218 1KObs: without the ferrite.
VR 20 - 10 - 11 = 100K

After assembling and checking everything, be very careful with the transistor insulators to verify with a
multimeters if there is no short with the radio case. Now let's do one of the most important parts of all,
what it is, to correct the bias current.
In this case, since they are MOSFET transistors, there is a correct way and a technique that works very well with them.
cases, and I use them on the bench and they have never failed, the radios are always well tuned, because if you don't
correcting the bias currents will not only overheat the output transistors but will also cause saturation and will generate
RF spurious signals that will disrupt your radio transmission and will lock the audio in AM.
I will teach my method to correct the TR biases. Place a phantom load at the antenna output of the radio,
Put the radio in USB or LSB, and do not remove the small board from tps 7, 8, and 9. Close trimpots 10, 11, and 20. Put a
ammeter in series with the radio's power supply. Ready, let's proceed to the adjustment.
With the tx on, adjust the trimpot 11 until the ammeter reads 1 Ampere, now let's go to trimpot 10 and keep turning.
he until you see that it will go beyond 1 Amp if it goes back a little to stay at 1 amp, ready repeat these
Steps for the next trimpot the VR 20. Ready? Set the radio to AM and see how many watts you managed, with the carrier.
Do not adjust the VR 13 to 12W output on the wattmeter. Ok, if you achieved the power in AM, you can now test it in
ssb.
If all the steps were followed strictly and everything is okay, congratulations you did it, just close the radio and good contacts.
Kiko PY2 LF – PX2Y 7031.

In the diagram below, you can see the components that have already been replaced and how the radio will look once finished. Already with
the new output transistors. Do not forget to note that the position of diodes 88, 89, and 112 are reversed in
relation to the previous scheme. With the anode to ground instead of the cathode and are soldered from the bottom side of the board.
Look how it turned out after it was done. The radio was tested even without an antenna and it didn't burn the output transistors.
These IRF 520s are really awesome. (Note: We do not recommend testing without an antenna).

TR-17, D1, D2, D23, D24

Galaxy DX 33, 44, 55, 66, 73, 77, 88, 99, 11b, Pluto, Super Galaxy, Galaxy II, Saturn, SSB
Malacca, RCI2980, Eagle 2000, Connex 3300 (all), Superstar 3600, 3900 (all), Osaka 3900,
General Lee, Voyager VR9000, Alan 87, Nortstar Galaxy clones and other radios that use the
EPT-3600 series Main Board.
2sc2999 and Schottky diode swap

PostbycarlMonday 12th Feb 2007, 7:01

How to perform the 2sc2999 and Schottky diode swap for increased receive gain and less noise.

As many of you know, there are a few ways to boost the incoming signal, generally this is done
with a pre-amp style device; the drawback to a preamp is that it also boosts all other noises as
well. It works the same as turning up the volume on your radio, as you can tell it does not help
much if at all. What can you do to help? Well by swapping a few parts for upgraded parts you can
make your radio more sensitive by boosting the incoming signal and helping to make the radio
quieter on receive. The best part is that since we will be working with the first IF stage of the
radio all the garbage that would normally be boosted with a pre-amp will be filtered out so only
the other radios carrier will be boosted. We will also help out the noise blanker section of the radio
for quieter operation. This will not change the signal you receive on your meter but it will make a
A 3 s-unit signal is as loud as a 4.5 s-unit signal. It also does not make your radio more prone to being
overdriven up close. The swap is relatively quick, taking anywhere between 10 minutes for the
experienced to 40 minutes to the first timer.

Today I will be using a Uniden Grant XL but the same applies to the GrantLT, Cobra 148 GTL,
Uniden Washington, Cobra 2000 GTL, General Sherman, Texas Ranger 296, and countless others
clones.

Toolsneeded
soldering iron
solder sucker, or copper braid
pen
silver solder
small side cutters
right angle pic (makes removing small parts easier)
#2 phillips screwdriver

Parts needed - less than $15

1- 2sc2999 High Gain, Low Noise Transistor (or nte107**)
4- 1N6263 Schottky Barrier Diodes (or nte583, ecg583, sk9975)
1-Transistor removed from the TR-14 position

You can begin by removing both the top and bottom case halves. There are a total of 12 screws that
need to be removed (4 per side, 1 on top and bottom, and 2 in the rear). I find the speaker easier
to unsolder rather than clip the nylon zip ties and unplug from the main board. If you chose to
Unsolder the wires at the speaker. Remember that the white wire is the positive (+) lead.

Take a look at the component side of the radio and find the positions outlined below. They are TR-
14*, TR-19*, D1, D2, D21, And D22. These areas are where we will be working. Also take note of
the orientation of the transistors (TRs) and note that the flat side faces the rear of the radio, It is
It is important that the new parts be installed the same way. The same holds true for the diodes (D's).
as the stripe must be facing the correct side on the new diodes.

I like to start with the transistor at position TR-14, this is the Am Detector. You need to unsolder
this from the backside of the board; it's easy to find its location on the rear by holding the radio
up to a bright light and using a pen to mark one of the legs. Make sure it's a pen and not a pencil.
Once you have the transistor loose, you can place it aside as you will be using it again in a second.
Place the new 2sc2999 transistor in the TR-14 position with the flat side facing the rear of the
radio. Flip the radio over and solder each leg. Heat the joint for 2-3 seconds before applying
solder. A good joint is a shiny joint, not dull and grey. If it is, you need to heat the joint longer.
PostbycarlMonday, February 12, 2007, 7:02
TR-17, D1, D2, D23, D24

Galaxy DX 33, 44, 55, 66, 73, 77, 88, 99, 11b, Pluto, Super Galaxy, Galaxy II, Saturn, SSB, Melaka,
RCI2980, Eagle 2000, Connex 3300 (all), Superstar 3600, 3900 (aPlol)s,tOs:s
ka
a 3900, General Lee,
Voyager VR9000, Alan 87, Nortstar Galaxy clones and other radioJosintheadt:uMsoentdhaeyE5PtTh-3F6e0b0 series
Main Board.

TR-18 (Q), D1, D2, D34, D35

RCI-2950 & 2970 (non dx) Mirage 2950, Sommerkamp 2000, Galaxy SaturnTurbo, Galaxy DX 22B
Galaxy DX 2527, RCI-2990, Eagle 5000, and other radios that use the EPT-2950 series Main Board.